Safe Fish Unhooking

Barbless hooks

The barbless hook is the foundation of proper unhooking because it reduces time, tearing, and unnecessary handling. If you don’t have true barbless hooks, flatten the barb completely with flat pliers until it is truly flush: even a tiny remaining bump can keep tearing tissue. It works best if you keep the line under tension throughout the fight and maintain solid control of the fish in the final yards, because a barb does not make up for a loose hookset or a slack rod. The real advantage is not just “doing less damage,” but being able to solve almost everything with a simple backing-out of the hook along the same path it entered.

The right gear, ready before the catch

Unhooking is prepared before you cast, not when the fish is already in the net. Needle-nose pliers, reliable side cutters, a rubberized landing net, a wet hand or glove, and, if you target toothy species, long pliers or a support boga should be kept immediately accessible. Side cutters are often more important than pliers: on treble hooks and heavy-duty hooks, cutting a point or the shank allows a far less traumatic removal. A common mistake is wasting precious seconds searching for a tool in your pack while the fish thrashes and burns energy for no reason.

Net, surfaces, and slime coat protection

A net with rubber mesh or rubber-coated mesh limits abrasion and reduces hook and fin tangles. Avoid laying the fish on dry rocks, hot sand, rough decks, or dry fabrics: the protective slime coat is an essential biological barrier against infection and osmotic stress. If you need to lift it, always wet your hands and support it at two points, one under the chest and one near the caudal peduncle, without squeezing the belly. Reading the situation means understanding where to unhook: in shallow, calm water it is almost always better to do it there, while on rocks or high banks it is wiser to secure the fish in the net before any maneuver.

Unhooking in the water or out

WHEN AND WHY: The right rule is simple: the more the fish stays submerged, the better, as long as you can work with control. Small to medium fish, hooked in the lip and on a single hook, can often be released directly in the submerged net or with pliers without even lifting them. If instead you are dealing with multiple trebles, a very lively fish, or the risk of hooking your own hand, a brief lift into a prepared, wet environment can be safer for both of you. On hot days, with water already low in oxygen, every second out of the water matters more; in intense cold, also watch out for contact with icy surfaces that can damage eyes and skin.

Removal technique

ANGLE, ROTATION, CALM: The hook should be removed by reversing the path it took going in. Grip the shank or the bend with pliers, relieve line tension, and rotate the hook just enough to free the point from the tissue; pulling straight almost always worsens the hold and tears tissue. With single hooks in the mouth, the move is often a small rotation plus backing out, while with trebles it is better to immobilize the fish in the net first and work one point at a time. A little-known trade trick is to use line tension as a “third hand”: a partner holding the leader slightly tight makes the hook angle easier to read and the unhooking much cleaner.

Deep hooking and difficult hooks

WHAT TO REALLY DO: If the hook is deep, near the gills, or not clearly visible, the priority becomes not making the damage worse. In many cases it is better to cut the line or, if possible and safe, cut part of the hook with side cutters so you remove only what protrudes without tearing internal tissues. It is important not to stick fingers or pliers blindly into the gill cavity and not to force the mouth open unnaturally. One widespread belief needs correcting: not all hooks “dissolve” quickly; in practice, what matters is avoiding a traumatic maneuver when a clean extraction is not realistically possible.

How to read the species and the situation

MOUTH, TEETH, FISH ENERGY: Not all fish are unhooked the same way. Species with delicate mouths require maximum finesse and full body support, those with teeth or powerful jaws demand a safe distance and long tools, while highly oxygen-dependent fish suffer more quickly from handling and prolonged photos. Also read the amount of “fuel” left: a fish brought in exhausted, upside down, or breathing hard should be unhooked and revived immediately, giving up measurements and pictures if necessary. If you see active bleeding from the gills, the margin for recovery drops and any further unnecessary handling becomes a serious mistake.

Common mistakes and immediate fixes

The most frequent mistake is trying to beat haste with force: in reality, more time is lost ripping at a badly positioned hook than by pausing for a second to read the correct angle. Another typical error is lifting the fish by the leader or by the jaw without supporting the body, especially in heavy specimens: that stresses joints and internal organs. Also avoid fingers in the gills, dry hands, dry mats, and improvised photo sessions with a fish that is thrashing around. There is only one practical fix: organize a fixed routine—net ready, tools within reach, wet hands, unhook, quick photo if needed, release.

Release and recovery

LETTING IT SWIM OFF IS NOT ENOUGH: A fish unhooked well but released badly may still fail to recover. Hold it in the water in a natural position, without pushing it back and forth forcefully: it is better to point it into the current or toward a light flow so it ventilates its gills on its own. When it regains strength, it will try to hold position, close its mouth in a coordinated way, and give more regular tail kicks; only then should you let it go. If it keeps rolling over, staying rigid, or failing to maintain balance, it needs more support time and less rush to “finish the scene.”

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